With temperatures continuing to drop and trees beginning to show the richer, redder hues of autumn, few things are more inviting than a steaming cup of tea. Whether needing a quick defense on unexpectedly chilly mornings or still low on energy after a draining summer, a hot drink with nutritional benefits to boot is an ideal fall staple.


In Korea, where the culture of tea consumption and cultivation as both lifestyle and ritual can be traced back to the 3rd century A.D., regard for the multifold merits of tea is particularly high. Even as consumers’ enthusiasm for coffee continues to grow, efforts to preserve Korea’s rich tea heritage also continue.

Tea culture in Korean history

“More than a luxury or a hobby, our tea culture boasts a long history and is significant in terms of royal rituals as well as social etiquette,” said Kim Eui-jung, the title holder for Seoul’s Intangible Cultural Property No. 27, Gungjung Darye (royal tea ceremony).

Writings by Kim on the historical development and practice of darye (tea ceremony) make reference to Geodeung, the king of Gaya during the Three Kingdoms era (199-259). According to Samguk Yusa, an account of this period, Geodeung had officially designated a day on which respects were to be paid at the ancestral shine of the royal family of Gaya, and the performance of the ancestral rites had included offering rice cakes, alcohol, fruits, and tea.


In the Samguk Sagi (History of the Three Kingdoms), the custom of drinking tea is said to have spread widely from the reign of Queen Seondeok (632-647) of Silla to that of King Heungdeok (826-836). The Silla hwarang, or literally, “flower boys,” an elite group of male youths who received aristocratic educations as well as training in various military skills, are described as enjoying tea boiled in stone braziers, with the practice of drinking tea allowing the hwarang to build camaraderie as well as make showings of proper etiquette within their ranks.

Monks during this time are also recorded as having enjoyed tea, which was used in sacrifices at temples. Tea was a favorite pastime for Wonhyo, a leading scholar-monk in the Korean Buddhist tradition, and it was famously offered up by another monk as a gift to King Gyeongdeok (742-765), remembered for commissioning the construction of Bulguksa Temple.

During the Goryeo Kingdom, the tea culture flourished together with the spread of Buddhism, becoming a fixture not only in the royal palace but also among literary figures and in religious settings. Tea was an essential part of formal as well as informal rites, presented at ceremonies celebrating the birthdays and weddings of royalty as well as those welcoming foreign envoys.

Drinking to our health

One aspect of Korean culture highlighted in the practice of drinking various teas is the traditional belief, standardized by traditional medicine, that food and medicine are homologous -- good food can be, in and of itself, good medicine for the body. Moreover, ingredients that make good medicine can also become a welcome part of good food.

Among the kinds of tea, or cha, traditionally enjoyed in Korea are those made from grains, mixtures of various plant leaves, fruits, flower blossoms, and medicinal extracts. Teas made from grain include the creamy yulmu tea made from powdered job’s tears, and cornsilk tea, lauded for being rich in antioxidants. Popular leaf teas include duchung tea, which uses eucommia bark, a favorite ingredient in herbal medicine, as well as persimmon leaf tea. Sweeter options like yuji (citron) and mogwa (quince) are also popular. Chrysanthemum tea and insam (ginseng) tea, made from the plant buds and roots, show the wide range of Korean teas.

Experience Korea’s tea culture

From preparation to drinking, tea was traditionally regarded in Korea less as a beverage and more as an experience. The sound of the hot water as it is carefully poured, the sight of varyingly clear and colored liquids filling empty cups, the unique aromas that are created by different mixtures of ingredients, the hands that extend with poise to bring the tea to the taster’s lips, and the first appreciative and slow sip -- the experience is described as one that appeals to all five senses.


For those interested in learning more about Korea’s traditional tea ceremonies, the Korea Tea Culture Association holds a Traditional Tea Etiquette program in Seoul at Yeongchunheon, Changgyeonggung Palace on the first and third Saturdays of each month from April to October. Participants wear Hanbok and learn about the traditional tea ceremony and etiquette as well as how to make dasik (a pressed candy traditionally eaten with tea) and perform various memorial rites. The last event for this year will take place on October 20.

By Kwon Jungyun
Korea.net Staff Writer