Nestled between the skyscrapers of Dongdaemun is the small, unassuming neighbourhood of Gwanghui-dong. At first its narrow alleys may seem uninviting, but those intrepid enough will find some of Seoul’s most unexpected culinary delights. 

Many of the signs in the area are in Cyrillic.
Although known as “Little Russia,” this area located south of Dongdaemun Market and Euljiro is mainly home to migrants from Central Asian nations, particularly Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, Tajikistan, and Mongolia. 

The community they formed dates back to the early ‘90s. It became a popular location for foreign clothing traders who wanted to be near Dongdaemun Market. Also, the breakup of the USSR saw many ethnic Korean citizens -- known in Russia as Koryo-in -- move back to their homeland and take up residence in Gwanghui-dong. Following the Asian financial crisis of 1997, migrant workers came from Central Asian nations like Mongolia and Uzbekistan to take advantage of the exchange rate, and many ended up staying. The population of people from post-Soviet countries in this area is reported to have grown to 70,000 at its height. 

Signs are in Cyrillic alongside Hangeul, showing the way for the diverse crowd of Russian-speakers who frequent these streets. Delicious aromas of exotic foods waft into streets that are lined with the names of distant cities such as Ulaanbaatar and Samarkand. It can be disorienting to anybody accustomed to being immersed in Korean, and it’s easy to lose one’s way. 

Many businesses catering to Central Asians can be found here, from services like currency exchange, phone cards, freight shipping, and travel agents, to luxuries including bars, karaoke, and salons, all in their own language. But what most non-Russian-speakers might like best are the numerous restaurants, bakeries, cafes, and grocery stores. 

Starting from the direction of Dongdaemun History and Culture Park Station exit 13, the widest street of Little Russia is easily reached. About 50 meters in is a ten-story building with two popular Mongolian restaurants on the second and third floor, as well as grocery stores selling anything from candy to vodka. 

Wandering through the alleys to the west, one can find a number of Uzbek restaurants, including the popular Samarkand standing at a three-alley intersection. Further south, on the far end of the district, is My Friend, another popular Russian restaurant run by a Koryo-in woman. 

Past My Friend, one reaches the street of Mareunnae-gil, where many more restaurants businesses can be found. Right across the crosswalk is Rata Bakery, a Kyrgyz bakery offering numerous baked goods such as samsa and khachapuri, including many stuffed with beef or lamb meat, as well as miscellaneous other treats including candy, chocolate, and a wide selection of vodka. The owner is very friendly and has seating for diners. 

Lamb-filled pastries are on sale at Rata Bakery.

Further west down this street, one can find more culinary treasures around Dongdaemun History and Culture Park exit 7. Heading north, a right-hand turn out exit 7, one finds Restaurant Kazakhstan, which serves many national Kazakhstan dishes including some with horse meat. Taking a left turn brings you to Gostiny Dvor, another Russian restaurant that claims to serve only authentic Russian food. 

Finding a restaurant in this neighborhood can be a daunting voyage, but knowing what to order is another new challenge. Many restaurants have Cyrillic-only menus, while others offer translations into Korean, and a few offer English menus. Often the safest way to order is to observe what other customers are eating and point to something that looks or smells great. 

Samarkand offers a selection of fresh-baked bread (left); the atmosphere inside Samarkand is always happy (right).

Most restaurants have overlapping menus, whether run by Mongolians or Russians or Uzbeks -- but each offers their own unique recipes. And each restaurant offers its own freshly baked bread, which is a great supplement to the many sauce-heavy foods. 

One popular menu item is manty, a meat dumpling closely related to Korea’s mandu. Because of its familiarity it’s popular among Koreans, and still tastes uniquely different from Korean mandu. 

One of the most famous delicacies found in most restaurants in this area is borscht, a beet soup. Originally from Ukraine, it is popular in many former Soviet republics. This reddish-purple delicacy is served without meat, making it a safe vegetarian choice, although it often comes with cream. 

A more adventurous choice is golubsi, a dish of cabbage rolls stuffed with meat, often beef or lamb. One variant on golubsi replaces the cabbage with stuffed peppers, and often the two are served together. 

Golubsy is made of cabbage rolls and red peppers stuffed with meat, served in a savory sauce.


For meat lovers, shashlik is worth trying. Similar to Turkish shish kebab, it is cooked and served on a skewer. The meat can vary, anything from pork and chicken to beef and lamb, marinated in vinegar and flavored with herbs and spices. 

To go along with the meal, most of the area restaurants offer a variety of alcoholic drinks, from vodka to beer. The largest Russian beer brand is Baltika, which is available in most restaurants. Each brand of Baltika has a number. For instance, Balktika 3 is a 4.8-percent pale lager, while Baltika 9 is an eight-percent lager. 

Also available are several varieties of vodka from all over the former Soviet Union, although it’s best to drink cautiously -- don’t forget that vodka usually has an alcohol content of around 40 percent, which is double most commercial soju brands. 

The food of Little Russia is hearty, filling, and affordable, and seeking it out on your own is a rewarding journey. 


[Source: Korea.net]